Starting locs is one of the most meaningful hair decisions you'll make. Done right, with the right foundation and the right specialist, it's a journey your hair will reward you for. Here's everything you need before you begin.
Loc methods — which one is right for you?
There's no single way to start locs. The right method depends on your hair type, desired look, and how patient you're willing to be during the locking process.
Two-strand twists
The most popular starter method for 4C hair. Two sections of hair are twisted around each other and left to lock over time. Twists eventually unravel into locs as the hair matures. This method creates a rounder, more uniform loc shape.
Best for: 4B and 4C hair, people who want neat, cylindrical locs
Comb coils / finger coils
Hair is coiled into tight circles using a comb or fingers. Tends to create tighter, smaller locs with a defined coil pattern at the top. Can be more fragile in the early stages.
Best for: 4C hair, smaller locs, more defined initial pattern
Interlocking
A loc tool or needle is used to pull the root through the loc itself, creating a more secure locking pattern. Popular for people with finer hair or those who want a neater root in early stages. Requires a skilled hand to avoid thinning.
Best for: Active lifestyles, swimming, or those who want quicker root retwists
Freeform locs
No specific method — hair is washed regularly and allowed to loc on its own without manipulation. Creates organic, varied loc shapes and sizes. The most hands-off approach but the least predictable result.
Best for: People who want a natural, organic look and minimal maintenance
The stages of loc development
Locs go through distinct stages, and the in-between periods can feel frustrating if you don't know what to expect. Here's the honest timeline:
Your locs are freshly installed but not yet locked. They may unravel, look loose, and feel fragile. Avoid over-washing and excess manipulation.
The hair starts to knot and swell at the ends. Your locs may look fuzzy and undefined — this is normal. Resist the urge to retwist too frequently.
Often the most difficult phase. Locs can look uneven, and you may feel like giving up. They haven't fully locked yet. Stay the course.
Your locs are fully locked and have a consistent shape and texture. They feel firm and are much more resilient to washing and styling.
Locs are fully established with strong roots and consistent length. Maintenance becomes easier and the style really comes into its own.
Cost guide for locs in the UK
Prices are indicative for London. Costs vary by specialist, loc size, and hair length.
Choosing a loc specialist in the UK
Starting your locs with the right person is arguably the most important decision in your loc journey. A bad foundation — inconsistent sizing, poor parting, or overly tight twists — can affect your locs for years. Look for a specialist who has an extensive loc portfolio, can explain which method suits your hair type, and offers ongoing maintenance.
FindStylist lists verified loc specialists in London and is expanding across the UK. All specialists are reviewed for Afro and textured hair experience before listing, so you can browse with confidence.